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刘蔚
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刘蔚
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Wei Liu Exam 1.52: Yu Jie’s Shaoxing Duck 2

刘蔚:余杰[绍兴的鸭2]—六年高考1.52

   民主人士/觉醒人士/普通百姓 刘蔚 2014年5月29日

   Wei Liu Exam 1.52: Yu Jie’s Shaoxing Duck 2

   Democratic People/Awakened People/Common People Wei LiuMay 29, 2014

   有水的地方,就一定有鸭。在那温柔的水中,我发现一群群的鸭子,它们轻盈地在水里游弋着。就在鸭子们的旁边,划动着只有绍兴才有的乌蓬船。我喜欢水,也喜欢鸭,喜欢在水里嬉戏的鸭子优美的姿态,当然更喜欢被端上餐桌的鸭子的美味。在故乡的时候,我就嗜好吃鸭。我一向认为,世界上除了猪肉以外,最好吃的就是鸭肉了。既然见到了一群群的鸭子,那么绍兴的餐桌上一定有一样多的鸭肉。于是,我心里想,到绍兴一定要大吃一番。

   Once there is water, there will be ducks. I see groups of ducks swimming in the soft water. Besides them are the canoes with dark gray ceiling, which one can only find in Shaoxing, Zhejiang Province, China. I like water and the ducks in it and their beautiful dance, and what I like better is the tasty dishes made of duck meat. In my hometown western Sichuan Province, which is 100 miles east to Tibet, I’m fond of the duck meat. I always think that besides pork, duck meat is the best meat in the world. Since there are groups of ducks in water, there must be dishes of duck meat on the dinner table in Shaoxing. So I expect to eat as much as I want during my stay in Shaoxing.

    果然,我们到绍兴吃的第一顿饭就是在咸亨酒店吃的,除了要黄酒、茴香豆以外,我点了一盘酱鸭。因为我以前从来没有听说过“酱鸭”这个名称。我在老家常常吃卤鸭,在北京常常吃烤鸭,各有各的风味,但酱鸭还是第一次听说。酱鸭呈深黑色,黑得发亮,看上去很干,一点水分都没有。我夹起一块,轻轻咬一口,第一感觉是很硬。然后是豆油的香味,这种香味胜过了豆油本身的咸味。小敏说,这也许是酱了若干年的老鸭子。我点头称是,又夹了一块。由于酱鸭腌制的时间很长,所以就好像老腊肉和牛肉干。吃到第二块的时候,我才慢慢吃出鸭子特有的味道来。酱鸭不让人感到有丝毫的油腻,剩下的全是干瘦的肉,耐得咀嚼的干肉,可谓精华中的精华也。豆油已经渗透到鸭肉的里面,甚至渗透到骨头之中。我啃完肉,还忍不住慢慢地去啃骨头。在这样的小店里,是不需要注意自己的“吃相”的。在这里,性情比形象更加重要。宁萱是大半个个素食主义者,不太吃肉,只是挑另一个盘子里的茴香豆吃,于是一大盘酱鸭被我一块接一块地吃了个干净。然后,我还觉得意犹未尽,盯着已经空了的盘子看了半天,仿佛希望里面再诞生一盘新的鸭肉。宁萱看着我的一副谗相,乐得合不拢嘴,她则对茴香豆情有独钟,几乎没有动过我面前的鸭子。

   As I wish, the first meal we have in Shaoxing is in Hanheng Restaurant. Besides the yellow wine, aniseed flavored beans, I order a plate of marinated duck. This is the first time I hear of marinated duck. In my hometown western Sichuan Province, people eat stewed duck in dark sauce, and in Beijing, people eat roasted duck, different flavors. The marinated duck looks dark black, shining, very dry. I use chopsticks to put one piece into my mouth, and feel it is truly hard, and then the fragrance of the soy sauce comes, which is better than the salty taste of the soy sauce itself. Little Min says that perhaps this is an old duck that has been marinated for many years. I nod and agree, and put another piece into my mouth. Owing to the long time of being marinated, the duck meat tastes like old preserved ham or beef jerky. Only when I taste the second piece, do I feel the particular flavor of the duck. The marinated duck does not give you any greasy taste because all the meat is thin and dry, and can be bitten by teeth for long time, which is truly the best of the good meat. The soy sauce has infiltrated into the duck meat and even to the bones. Having nibbled down the meat, I start to nibble at the bones. In such small restaurant, one does not need to be gentle in eating. Here one having a good time in eating is more important than being gentle in eating. Ningxuan is mostly a vegetarian. She almost does not eat meat, and just eat the aniseed flavored beans from another plate. So the duck pieces in the big plate are almost finished just by myself. Then not completely contented, I stare at the empty plate, seeming to wish to have another new plate of duck meat. Seeing me have such good appetite, Ningxuan keeps smiling. She just eats on the aniseed flavored beans and almost does not touch the duck plate.

    玩了大半天,又到了傍晚时分。我们漫无目的地经过一条小街,平日里难得有这样漫无目的的散步。街头有一家小店,正在卖“绍兴麻鸭”。小店前面已经排了老长的队,而小店不过十平方米的样子,可见这是一种很受欢迎的鸭子。正是吃晚饭的时候,我的肚子也饿了,一看鸭子,顿时眼睛发亮,赶紧凑上去。“什么是麻鸭?”我问卖鸭的大妈。大妈告诉我说,麻鸭因羽毛呈麻褐色而得名,只有绍兴才出产。麻鸭的躯体狭长,背平腹大,肉嫩而味道鲜美。麻鸭最好的做法是整只清炖,用麻绳捆好,炖好以后依然是整支鸭子的形状。我看到店里一只接一只已经炖好的、浅褐色的麻鸭,立即说要买一只。我问大妈:“这鸭需不需要切开呢?”大妈笑了笑说:“不用,这鸭都炖熟了,入口就化了。”有趣的是,鸭子按照只来卖,而不称重量。大概这些鸭子的重量都差不多,所以当地人习惯于把它们按只来卖。更有意思的是,装鸭子的一次性饭盒是扁圆性的,跟鸭子的形状一样,一只热腾腾的鸭子放进去,刚刚充满。我端着这个盛着鸭子的饭盒,喜滋滋地回酒店去。

   We have had a good time and then the dusk comes. We loiter along a small street, which seldom happens in our daily life. There is a small store on this street, selling Shaoxing Brown Duck, with a long line of customers. The store is about 100 square feet, and you can imagine its duck must be very popular. Now it’s the supper time and I feel hungry. Once I see the duck, my eye opens wide. Walking forward, I ask the old sales lady, [What is Brown Duck?] She says, [It is called Brown Duck because its feather looks brown, and only Shaoxing has this kind of duck.] The Brown Duck has a slim body, flat back and big belly, and its meat tastes tender and flavorful. The best way to cook the Brown Duck is to stew it as a whole, using string to tie its body to keep its shape. I see the fully cooked light brown duck in the store one after another and say that I want to buy one. I ask the old sale lady, “Does it need to cut the duck into pieces?” She laughs and says, [No, it does not need to. See, the duck is stewed for hours and will melt in your mouth once you bite on it.] It is interesting to see that the Brown Duck is not sold by weight but by whole item, in other words, every duck is the same price. Perhaps all the ducks have about the same weight. What is more interesting is that the one-time plastic container looks oval, the same shape as the duck. A whole Brown Duck putting into it will just fill it up. Holding the oval duck container by hand, I delightfully walk back to my hotel.

    一回到酒店,我就迫不及待地吃了起来。果然,这只鸭子已经炖得非常熟了,入口不用咀嚼,轻轻用牙一咬就化了。因为是仔鸭,所以肉像乳猪一样嫩。这是我吃过的最嫩的一只鸭了。就着一瓶啤酒,我硬是将整只鸭子都吃了个一干二净。宁萱在一旁看得目瞪可呆,对我说:“你的前生大概是一只鸭子,否则你怎么对鸭子这么有亲近感。”我听了一笑,说:“不是我对鸭子有亲近感,是绍兴的鸭子太好吃了。”

   As soon as I get back to the hotel, I cannot wait a second to eat on the Brown Duck. Truly, the duck has been stewed fully and melts in my mouth without my teeth even biting on it. Since it is duckling, the meat tastes as tender as suckling pig. This is the tenderest duck I’ve ever had. With half a liter of beer, I eat up the whole Brown Duck. Having seen me doing so, Ningxuan feels stunned and says to me, [You must have been a duck in your previous life. Otherwise, how can you like the duck so much?] I reply, [It’s not I’m akin to the duck, but because Shaoxing Duck is too tasty.]

    六年高考1.52:“余杰[绍兴的鸭2]”完

   《走过六年高考岁月》第1本书:《从出生到小学毕业》待续

   The end of [Yu Jie’s Shaoxing Duck 2]

   Walking Through Six Years Examination/Wei Liu Exam Book One From Birth to the Graduation of Elementary School to be continued

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   公友/觉醒人士/民主人士/普通百姓 刘蔚 2014年5月29日更新

   Wei Liu: China Revolution: The Grand All-People Revolution in China (Chinese- English Version)

   Human Rights Worker/Awakened People/Democratic People/Common People

   Wei Liu May 29, 2014 Renewed 如果你还想你或你亲友每人拿回土地,住房,医疗,拿回包括公民税率,政府各方面开支等社会事务的表决权这些民主人权,你最好读完这篇长文。你可以从Google translate/谷歌翻译听文章的朗读。你可告诉你外国朋友/老师我写的英文。他们可以在google上用“Wei Liu Revolution” or “Wei Liu Exam”搜寻出我的文字。更多文章见我的海外博讯boxun网站的博客,加上前后的www, com 我名字在首页底部的作者群中。从2007年到2014年2月,我博客的显示点击量已达300万,而按博讯说的各博客的实际点击量是显示点击量的10倍以上,那我博客的实际点击量到2014年2月已达3000万。我们的文字是对中国民众说的,是我们认为真实的情况,欢迎各位,各媒体.转载,传播。一个人给5个以上人讲我们《伟大的中国全民大革命》中的1项国际公约,2项活动主张,4项基本人权,8项优秀活动,及本县/市政权楼等几个地址,民众兵器弹弓枪等起义事宜,壮大进步力量,救自己,救别人,救中国。

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